The most important initial advice is to not walk across the grass. The soil will still be soft underneath, walking on the lawn can cause unwanted dips within the turf.
We recommend giving the grass at least 2 – 3 weeks to allow the roots to bed into the subsoil before any foot traffic.
However, this may take longer, depending on how the aftercare is followed and the time of year.
Remember! Rain is best! If considerable rainfall is forecasted, then you may not be required to water the lawn as often. Rain gives a more even spread and has vital nutrients, therefore rainfall is always best!
1. Gaps between the turf – Carefully monitor the gaps between the individual rolls of turf. When the lawn is first laid there will be clear lines between each section. If the gaps begin to increase in width, it is highly likely there is a lack of water. The turf may also begin to roll up on the outer edges. If this is happening, then it’s essential to water the grass as soon as possible. Watering during extreme heat is not advisable. Please water in the evening and morning. Remember! It is the soil that needs the water for the grass to use. Always ensure the soil is moist.
2. Overwatering – Over watering can be as detrimental as under watering. If boggy/soggy areas appear, please refrain from further watering until it dissipates. Be careful not to keep the water in the same area for longer than 1 – 2 hours depending on the temperature.
3. Even Distribution – As mentioned, overwatering a single area can be problematic. For larger lawns, move the sprinkler regularly to ensure even water distribution. Setting an alarm on your phone can be a helpful reminder.
4. New turf requires constant moisture – Without constant moisture the grass will not establish, following the simple instructions above will ensure the roots begin to penetrate and establish efficiently.
5. The pinch test – A simple way to assess how the grass is rooting in is to pinch the turf between thumb and forefinger and lift the turf. If the turf lifts easily the roots have not yet begun to bed into the soil. If the grass breaks, then the roots have begun to bed in, and the process is taking shape. Assess the moisture levels and water accordingly.
Repeat this process in different areas if necessary
1. If you can hold a large handful of grass and lift the turf up without the turf lifting, the grass is ready to mow. It’s important to ensure the whole area is ready, repeat this in several areas until you are sure.
2. Sharp blades! Ensue the blades on your mower are sharp and can cut the grass cleanly. Rusty, blunt blades will rip the grass causing damage.
3. Never cut more than 20% keeping to this rule will ensure the grass isn’t put under too much stress too soon, gradually lower the cutting deck each time, until the desired length is achieved.
4. Collect the clippings – While mulching is acceptable for established lawns, it’s crucial to remove clippings from new turf to allow more sunlight to reach the grass and strengthen it. Also, remove any debris, leaves, or sticks from the lawn
Lawn seeding has similar aftercare advice to turf, however as it’s not a carpet of turf on top, you cannot perform the pinch or pull tests. Follow the advice given for turfing remembering these factors.
1. Assess the growth levels in different areas, if one side is growing faster, it may be due to more sunlight or it may require water.
2. Never rake the soil, the grass at this stage is very delicate until established.
3. Seeding takes time, be patient.
4. Using old CDs as bird scarers can be effective. We like to use 2 layers of seed. 1 underneath the soil and 1 on top. This can be an effective way of reducing the amount of seed eaten by wildlife. .
5. Keep up with the watering and your seed will be fine.
Christy Russell
Secretary
Christy
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